Patagonia and eco-tourism: Bariloche
The Bariloche region in Patagonia - in the southernmost region of the Americas - is known not only for skiing, trekking, nature excusions, white-water rafting, mountaineering, but also its pristine wildness and solitude.
Thursday, August 09, 2007By Marita Alasio /
For many, Bariloche (say Bah-ree-law-chay) is synonymous with winter, snow and skiing. But there's more: also known as the "Argentinean Switzerland", this city and its surrounding mountains and lakes are unquestionable tourist attractions all year long. Here, we offer you a special report where we cover all the excursions plus the essential info and activities to perform at this incredibly beautiful district in northern Patagonia.
The "queen" of the Andean Lakes District is, undoubtedly, the city of San Carlos de Bariloche. Located on the South margin of Lake Nahuel Huapi, it unfolds its beauty throughout its shore, along one long coastal avenue named Exequiel Bustillo, which extends up to Hotel Llao Llao, approximately 25 km. away from downtown.
A first, mandatory excursion consists of a relaxed stroll across its streets packed with old and charming stone and wood houses where, at each corner, beautiful sights and landscapes abound. Do not forget to take with you enough photographic film supply or RAM for those of you using digital cameras. You won't be able to refrain from taking many, many unforgettable pictures here in Bariloche.
A visit to the City
You can begin with a visit to the Cathedral Nuestra Señora del Nahuel Huapi. The building was projected by architect Alexander Bustillo and it was never finished. Nowadays its access is used as a chapel. It has got interesting displays of religious subjects relating to Patagonia. Then, after passing Puerto San Carlos (a place for embarking in lake trips where there are also places to eat and attractions for kids) you arrive at the Civic Center. This is the most representative spot in the city. With its Swiss style, arcades and horseshoe shapes facing the lake, was opened in year 1940 by National Parks. Its buildings are found the City Council, the Tourism Secretariat, Police, the Patagonia Museum, the Library, and the Emilio Frey site where cultural events and art exhibitions take place.
At the Council Building there is a Clock Tower that shows, at 12 noon and 6 PM, a parade of symbolic figures: aborigines, priests, soldiers, and settlers.
Afterwards you can walk along Mitre Street, the main commercial area of Bariloche. It is very interesting to observe the style of the buildings along its first blocks, trying to maintain the "Bariloche architecture": Stone and wood, arcades, balconies and eaves all around.
When you get to Beschtedt Street, you will see long stairways to your right which you can traverse in order to visit one of the most antique buildings, the Chapel of the Immaculate which has been declared a Historic National Monument. Built in year 1905, its first placement was not here but on Moreno Street. It was moved to its current location, a true lookout point to the city, during year 1973 using rails.
It is also recommended that you visit the Walk of Nations (Paseo de las Colectividades) with its Flags Plaza which gathers all the flags of the different immigration currents that populated Bariloche.
Later, you can take Perito Moreno Street, going back to the Civic Center, where you will see the oldest houses in the city: Casa Marciani, Vivienda Speranza, Edificio Capraro, up to the Council of Nahuel Huapi National Park. Afterwards, a bit to your left on Morales Street the Club Andino Bariloche's building is located. It is a very important social and cultural place also. This walk can be finished walking along Mitre until it becomes San Martin Street in order to get to Worest Casino, featuring an imposing view to the lake.
Excursions
There is seduction and action all year long at Bariloche. Besides the traditional lake excursions like Victoria Island and Arrayanes (myrtle) Forest, Huemul Island, Puerto Blest, Cascada Los Cántaros and Lake Frías, you should consider the amazing Crossing to Chile via the Lakes.
You can't skip performing the Circuito Chico (Small Circuit), which consists of a 60 Km. ride along the coast of majestic Lake Nahuel Huapi, with restaurants, tea houses and places to buy home made goods and chocolates.
And there is more to see and do: paragliding, skiing, sailing in lakes and rivers, trekking, sleeping in a mountain shelter... it is all possible in Bariloche. And finally, you should also pay a visit to Cathedral Hill and the Tronador.
Nontraditional Excursions
Besides "classic" excursions there is much more to do here at Bariloche:
-4 Tracker rides: It is possible to hire excursions with a driver as well as do them on your own, but in an organized fashion. Best seasons are summer and fall. Although there are no fixed schedules you can easily find out dates on local media. There are two excursions which are particularly recommendable. One of them is a ride to Lopez Hill, passing by Swiss Colony and reaching an altitude of 1,400 meters above sea level. Breathtaking landscapes guaranteed. The second option is to depart towards the east (the plateau). From there you can see the magnificent Andes, visit caves and archaeological sites.
-Cerro Viejo Eco-tourist Park: It is situated very close to Bariloche (a 10 minutes walk), on the foothills of the Runge. There is a ski lift that takes you to a lookout point and then you can descend via a mountain path, where there is Flora interpretation, up to an Arrayanes Wood. Finally, at an old wooden barrack where one of the first ski factories in Bariloche used to operate, you can visit the Mountaineer Museum, an ideal place to learn about the ski pioneers and related facts.
-Cerro Leones Park: It is an old hill, some 15 Km. from Bariloche, on the east border of Lake Nahuel Huapi. At this place there are caverns that served as homes to the most antique aborigines that populated the area. In order to reach them you need to walk along a 130 m. tunnel. In the center of the mountain there is a water spring forming a small lagoon; it is a place full of magic surrounded by rocky paintings. The paths are accessible for all the visitors and there is also the chance of renting a horse. Needless to say, the views from the top are simply fantastic.
-Horseback rides: There are a lot of possibilities for this activity nearby Bariloche. Bear in mind that a minimum group (4 people generally) is required in order for the horseback trekking. The most popular rides, and the ones that most of the local companies offer, are:
1)Across Manso River: Whole day excursion, lunch included.
2) Across River Ñirihuau: Whole day excursion, lunch included. There is also an option to do a half day excursion.
3) Across the pampas to watch local fauna: Whole day excursion, lunch included. There is also an option to do a half day excursion.
-Paragliding: The altitudes surrounding Bariloche make it a paraglider's dream. But you can also make your "debut" as a beginner, in a baptism flight over one of the most incredible landscapes in America.
-Rafting: Summer months are the most adequate for taking these fast water currents. Generally, the rafting season begins in November, when the Andes Rivers augment their volume due to the thaw. Rivers Limay and Manso are the favorite among rafting lovers for different excursions:
Lower Manso River
This is an excursion for the whole the family (Class II and III). There are sand beaches surrounded by Andean forests. It is a whole-day trip.
Middle River Manso
This one requires previous experience (Class III and IV). Plenty of action, cascades, waves and a famous toboggan. Lasts half a day.
Manso to the Border
This one combines rafting and trekking, in order to get as far as the border with Chile sailing across narrow glens amidst exuberant vegetation. Although no previous experience is required, you have to be in good shape. Class III and IV. Lasts all day.
Golf: The season for golfing in Bariloche extends from September to May, when the fall rain season comes in. There are many tournaments, for all levels of expertise. It is possible to play golf at Llao Llao Hotel & Resort, located on Km. 25 of Exequiel Bustillo Avenue, it has got one of the best courts in Argentina, with 18 holes. And the surrounding landscape is simply irresistible.
Touring the Lakes
María Nieves Guevara, professional photographer, features this travelogue on one of the most charming areas within Patagonia: the Andean Lakes region that comprises part of Rio Negro and Neuquen provinces.
For those of us who really enjoy photography, touring Argentina becomes fascinating since, besides enjoying all the unique landscapes its geography offers, at the moment of taking a picture we can bring home a bit of its charm.
One typical route which is replete of beautiful and assorted beauties is the one that results of traversing southbound the western areas of the Neuquen and Rio Negro provinces, starting at Junin de los Andes up to Bariloche. This enables the traveler to enjoy, among many other heavenly sights, the famous Road of the Seven Lakes.
I invite you to take a break and enjoy the peace and harmony reigning here. Let's start this dream trip!
Lanín Volcano and Lake Huechulafquen
From Junín de los Andes we take the paved route 234 northbound up to the crossing with route 61 (gravel) where we turn left. A few miles, escorted on our right by River Chimehuin (fishermen's sanctuary), we spot the majestic Lanin Volcano.
After some 20 miles we will start to border Lake Huechulafquen, incredibly beautiful and really large. Then we enter Lanin National Park. The road, with ups and downs, conducts us through different landscapes. It is advisable to devote enough time when doing this and do many stops in order to take great photographs and admire this great environment.
Open-door activities and camping fans will have an unmatchable chance of settling their tents right on the shores of this Lake. There are many campsites, some of them offering all the services plus a drugstore. Some even offer piers in order to embark on the lake.
The road leads us to Puerto Canoas, where you can get aboard a catamaran in order to perform an excursion across Lake Huechulafquen up to Lake Epulafquen, renown for its volcanic originated thermal waters. From the lake you can get an impressive view of the Volcano and nearby peaks.
Further on the same road, westbound, you arrive to Lake Paimun where this tour finishes.
I insist on this, you must devote enough time to take this excursion and to be able to enjoy all of its features and charms. This means stopping at each little part of the road that catches our attention, get close to the Lakes with its immaculate waters and, if possible, to spend a night or two breathing pure air and counting the endless stars...
Lake Tromen
To get to this lake we must leave Junin de Los Andes via Route 234 (paved) northbound up to the crossing with route 60 (gravel) where we turn left. A few miles you reach the Treuco Mapuche Community. To visit it, we must take a 1.5 mile detour to the right. Following the main road we access, a bit ahead and also to the right, is the Chiquilihuín Mapuche aboriginal Community.
In both cases it is advisable to take this small detour and get close to these communities, meet the people, chat with them, discover their life habits and, if possible, show a bit of solidarity by means of purchasing some of their crafts, mainly in wool and wood.
This road has got less vegetation than the one to Lake Huechulafquen but, at its end and after passing by through a forest of Araucaria trees (unique in the world) once we are close to the border with Chile, we can see Lanín Volcano's north hillside, which is larger and less snowy than its south counterpart.
To access Lake Tromen we must turn right for some 2 miles, escorted by endless multicolor, wild flowers, like the rainbow daisies.
Once we get to this Lake, amidst a dream landscape, a strong and deep feeling of peace takes hold of us. You can camp here too. In any case, even in summer consider that nights are pretty cool even in summer so, bring suitable clothing with you.
** Marita Alasio is an Argentine writer who contributes for Spero News and Patagonia Argentina.
Trip to Bariloche with Travelideas.com.ar
